Making the trousers. Use 1cm seam allowance throughout.
Take one patch pocket, fold over and press the edges, and a deeper fold along the top pocket edge.
Sew the top fold.
Sew to the top of one of the back trouser pieces, lining up with marks on the pattern
Lay each trouser piece out and find the dots (marked on your pattern) to the outside near the waist. Position each trouser pocket, right side of pocket to the right side of the trousers, at exactly the same place on each of the four trouser pieces. (At the same distance from the waist) You can see where in the photo above.
Sew pockets to trousers. Fold over the top and bottom edge of the pocket as shown in the photo - this will help you to neaten the pocket edges later.
Next, sew the trouser legs together, beginning with the inside leg seams. Lay one front leg on top of one back leg, right sides together. Sew from the ankle to the crutch.
Use a machine fell seam, (see separate instructions) or french seam.
The photo above shows the inside leg seam sewn, with the front opened out to the right. You are now ready to sew the crutch seam, from the back of the waist to the front waist.
Take the back trouser leg and sew it to the front trouser leg - on the inside leg seam, finishing at the crutch. Use either a french seam or run fell seam. Repeat for the other trouser leg.
Open out the joined legs and lay one on top of the other so that you can pin and then sew from the back of the waist around the crutch to the front of the waist. Line up both inside leg seams.
Lay the side seams together and pin so that you can sew from the waist to the ankle, being sure to detour around the pocket.
In order to make your machine fell or french seam, clip the seam allowance on both sides of the pocket. There is plenty of room inside the trouser leg to make the seam - just take care that the is fabric of the trousers doesn’t get caught under the needle.
To neaten the pocket, fold the edge of the seam allowance in the direction of the fold you have already made. Press, pin and sew together.
To neaten the pocket, fold the edge of the seam allowance in the direction of the fold you have already made. Press, pin and sew together.
Fold the pocket so that it lays flat inside the trouser and top stitch along the front edge of the pocket.
Fold the ankle hem over twice and sew.
Fold 1cm over at the waist, then fold 4.5 over again to make the tunnel for the waist tape. Open it up and sew two button holes for the tape to emerge from the tunnel, on either side of the front seam. Then pin the tunnel in place and sew along the bottom edge. Thread the tape and knot the ends.
